Today we’d like to introduce you to Michael Atkinson.
Michael, we appreciate you taking the time to share your story with us today. Where does your story begin?
The relevant part of my story began the day I first stepped through the ‘Red Phone Booth.’ At the time it was called ‘Prohibition’ and located in Buckhead. I was attending College of Charleston and my friend group spent our time at dive bars with billiards tables, playing for drinks until close. That scene has the advantage of good times and cheap drinks, but PBR, Miller High Life, and Wild Turkey only scratch the surface of what the market has available. I was in Atlanta for winter break and wanted an experience beyond a beer and a shot. At the time I (incorrectly) believed that the only establishments that served worthwhile cocktails were speakeasies.
As with all good adventures, you don’t start at the final destination. First you need the code. My strategy was simple and effective, go to the bar across from ‘Red Phone Booth’, be nice to the bartender, tip well, then ask them for the code. I walked into the old phone booth, dialed the code, and the back wall opened. I had never seen a bar like that before, and I was visibly in awe. My first drink was a modified whiskey sour, which was also the first time I had egg white in a cocktail. That experience started my passion for cocktails. I would go back several times that winter, getting classics such as Blood and Sand as well as Sazerac. Jump forward, I’m attending Georgia State University, part way through an MPH degree and looking for a side job. I landed a weekend counter position at ‘Biltong Bar’ in Ponce City Market. The beverage program, run by Sean Gleason, would provide me with a jumping off point for my future endeavors. Even more importantly, ‘Biltong Bar’ was where I met my, now wife, Lizzy! She has been the major factor in teaching me the craft of cocktails. I would go on to learn advanced preparation techniques with Mercedes O’Brien and draft cocktails with Cole Younger Just. Now I am one of the lucky individuals working my dream job as beverage director at Full Commission!
Can you talk to us a bit about the challenges and lessons you’ve learned along the way. Looking back would you say it’s been easy or smooth in retrospect?
The main struggle was figuring out what it was I wanted to do professionally. There are two factors that hindered my growth in the restaurant industry. 1) Individuals are not exposed to the craft side of alcohol until at least the age of 21, at which point many are already on other trajectories. 2) Parents, friends, and co-workers all try to convince you that restaurant jobs cannot lead to a career.
Can you tell our readers more about what you do and what you think sets you apart from others?
I am the beverage director at Full Commission in Grant Park. My specialization is craft cocktails, especially draft cocktails. It is a fascinating process that combines science and art. I clarify the citrus using agar which allows me to strain out all the solid particulates, a technique discussed in detail in ‘Liquid Intelligence’ by Dave Arnold. This is critical to increase the longevity of the kegged cocktail, but also allows me the carbonate the entire volume. One of the draft cocktails that utilizes an array of techniques is “To the Moon.” It’s essentially a sparkling strawberry daiquiri, where the strawberry tops and pink peppercorn make the syrup, the bodies of the strawberries are quartered and frozen to break apart the cell wall to allow for greater flavor infusion with the rum, clarified lime is used for the acid profile, drambuie (a scotch based herbal liquor) adds great secondary flavor characteristics, sparkling wine to make it a spritz, and the correct amount of dilution. “To the Moon” is served in a wine glass with ice and topped with a rosemary sprig. Another standout cocktail is the “Gemcutter.” I designed this drink in the fall of 2020 and it has remained on the menu ever since as fan favorite and top seller. Consisting of Tequila, Mezcal, beet juice, ginger syrup, lime, and Pedro Ximenez sherry, served in a rocks glass on a large cube with a flamed star anise garnish.
Are there any books, apps, podcasts or blogs that help you do your best?
– Liquid Intelligence by Dave Arnold Cocktail Codex by Day, Fauchald, Kaplan
– The Nomad Cocktail Book by Robitschek
– The Flavor Bible by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg
The books listed above I have found to be most helpful with my current program, but the list could be tripled if I were to include books on bar history and personal favorites.
Contact Info:
- Email: michael@fullcommissionatl.com
- Website: fullcommissionatl.com
