Today we’d like to introduce you to Ama McKinley
Alright, so thank you so much for sharing your story and insight with our readers. To kick things off, can you tell us a bit about how you got started?
I’m Ama McKinley, the founder and designer of Ilium Wing and creator of the world’s only fine jewelry waist beads. Ilium Wing is named after the scientific term for the hip bone. I create my pieces exclusively with gold, diamonds, bone, and natural gemstones.
My journey as a jewelry designer is grounded in the spiritual teachings of the Lucumí/Ifa tradition. I had a spiritual challenge many years ago, and the elder mothers of my spiritual house prescribed them to me for protection. Ifa emphasizes harmony with nature and spirit, and the veneration of ancestors and the Divine Feminine, forming the bedrock of my work with waist beads. I have since studied other cultures and world religions, which inspire my work as well.
My journey with waist beads began In 2013, just after I began my initiation year into the priesthood, a woman asked me to make a strand for her that would represent Orisha Yemonja, goddess of the ocean, family, and motherhood. I meditated on her bead pattern and crystals for a few days, strung and blessed them, and instructed her on when and how to wear them. I only saw her once more, a year later. She said to me, “I wore your beads just one time, and I became pregnant.” Four women have credited my waist beads with their pregnancies.
In 2019, I made the bold decision to leave Corporate America and explore starting my jewelry brand. I began to imagine fine jewelry waist beads after my ex-husband gifted me a Marco Bicego bracelet. I searched far and wide for them, but discovered that no brand in the world offered what I envisioned. I only discovered the ancient waist beads of Egyptian Princess Sithathoryunet, pulled from her tomb and displayed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This discovery ignited a revelation within me—I was destined to elevate waist beads to new heights.
I make every piece by hand with natural gemstone beads that are hand-cut in India, natural diamonds, and 14k gold. They are luxurious because I believe that the Divine Feminine is luxurious. When I think of spiritual temples across religions and cultures, they are often the most opulent spaces in a community. I, too, believe that women are the original temple and should be adorned as such.
For me, crafting waist beads is a sacred calling, an invitation to rediscover inner beauty and reconnect with the universe’s rhythms. Each meticulously crafted piece is a journey of self-discovery, empowerment, and spiritual awakening. Through Ilium Wing, I strive to offer more than just adornment; I offer a transformative experience that weaves together the threads of past, present, and future.
Recently, I had the honor of being featured at the Couture Show in Las Vegas, a trade show showcasing “the world’s most exceptional curation of designer fine jewelry and luxury timepieces.” Introducing the world of fine jewelry to the multicultural, global, and sacred art of waist beads was a major win for culture. I have expanded my collection to include rings, earrings, necklaces, and bracelets using platinum, gold, diamonds, and bone.
I earned my MBA from Florida A&M University and completed my undergraduate studies at Albany State University in Albany, GA. I’m now back in Corporate America, working as Associate Director of Brand Strategy at Majority Agency here in Atlanta.
We all face challenges, but looking back would you describe it as a relatively smooth road?
The original struggle was that I intended to build this company with my ex-husband. But we had a dramatic separation just before the COVID shutdown. Little did I know that this was a MASSIVE blessing! Thank God for the strong support of my family. Especially my mom.
Another challenge was creating a network of professional peers. We all wear jewelry, but most people don’t think about how the industry works. It took me three years to build the right network. Atlanta has so much, but this isn’t a culture for fine jewelry. We have a popular culture of “bust down” watches, Van Clef bracelets and diamond rings, but not one that looks at emerging designers over popular brands. To solve for my isolation, I had to build a network elsewhere, in New York City; this is why so much of Atlanta talent moves to NYC or LA. It can be tough at times, because I can’t pull up so easily to industry events in NYC. But I’m thankful for my lifelines and industry mentors.
It has also been difficult to find my client and tribe. So much of Black culture knows about waist beads, but doesn’t buy fine jewelry. And the world of fine jewelry is just learning about waist beads…through me! It was hard to realize that my primary client isn’t “Us”. Also, so much of America isn’t a fine jewelry culture – we buy houses, cars, high end fashion and luxury purses.
Pricing was very difficult to set and accept as a new designer, because it’s psychological. For example, I debuted a pair of earrings this year that retail for $13,000 with an average industry markup. I have gone to to India to meet my gemstone bead manufacturer. People who don’t understand jewelry pricing will look at me like I’m crazy! Again, realizing that your client isn’t your friend, family or community can be a very hard pill to swallow. But we move on…
And to that end, financing a jewelry business is difficult. It takes money to buy pure gold, diamonds, gems, specialized labor, digital designers, educational certifications, all mixed with the craft and spiritual energy that I’ve developed over the years. Let’s be clear – I am PROUD that I can do this work! But again, much of society doesn’t understand that. So much of my work is educating consumers and buyers.
Thanks – so what else should our readers know about Ilium Wing?
I have a few proud moments:
– Self funding this from the very start!
– Making waist beads for Bozoma St. John – former global CMO of Netflix. She surprised me with a full social media post dedicated to my piece and even the unboxing.
– Debuting at The Couture Show. How could someone possibly introduce “a new type of jewelry” to the pinnacle industry event for fine jewelry?? Well, I did!
What matters most to you?
[In my Jay-Z voice] … Legacy, legacy, legacy. When I think of my dedication and consistency over the years, it’s because I often think of my great-grandchildren. I’m setting them up 50 years in advance, not just working to pay for trips tomorrow.
Also, I had a vision in 2020 once while meditating. My ancestors came to me and said “Poverty is a new entrant in our bloodline. And we’ve had enough of that.”
Pricing:
- Price range: $2,000 – $13,000
- Bespoke pieces begin with a $3,000 fee
Contact Info:
- Website: https://www.iliumwing.com
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/iliumwing
- Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Iliumwingjewelry
Image Credits
Photographer: Spencer Charles (instagram.com/spencer_charles)
